Activism / February 13, 2024

What Happened When a Palestinian Restaurant Hosted a Shabbos Dinner

A taste of what Palestine once was—and still could be.

S. Baum
(Sarah Baum)

Some people wore yarmulkes and some people wore keffiyehs and many people wore both. Neighbors broke bread—more specifically, a six-foot roll of challah—beneath a mural of the Al-Aqsa mosque, whose golden bricks were surrounded by a garland of olive branches.

It was a Friday night shabbos and over 1,300 people had crowded the new Ditmas Park branch of Ayat, a Palestinian restaurant chain with six locations across New York City and Pennsylvania. If Ayat sounds familiar, it’s either because you’re a Brooklynite with good taste in mashawy or because you’ve been reading some vitriolic headlines over the last month. (From ABC: “Palestinian-American business owners face death threats, negative reviews.” From the Daily Mail: “NYC Palestinian restaurant owner says he’s getting two death threats a MINUTE.”)

Many of the recent attacks on Ayat came from allies of Israel, who attacked the restaurant owners in the name of combating “Jew hatred.” But in the aftermath, both Jews and Palestinians came together to challenge this narrative and foster a unified front against anti-Palestinian violence—and it all happened over dinner.

The initial backlash happened after Elenani and Masoud promoted the December opening of their new location in a community Facebook group. Commenters pounced on the tongue-in-cheek title of their seafood menu, “From the river to the sea.”

The slogan, which had been on Ayat’s menu for almost a year, is regarded as a rallying cry for Palestinian liberation, but Zionist groups have labeled it “hate speech.” While the argument isn’t new, it’s taken on new life following Hamas’s October 7 attack against Israel and Israel’s subsequent assault on Gaza, which the International Court of Justice has dubbed a “plausible” genocide in the making.

The owners didn’t view the menu item as an attack against Jews but, rather, as a call for peace and equality in the Middle East. Masoud told The Nation it represented the version of Palestinian life she wanted the world to see: joy, generosity, and vibrant culture in the form of her family recipes, passed down through generations back in Jerusalem.

“If you approach a Palestinian person,” Masoud told The Nation, “they’re gonna welcome you into their home with open arms.… That was the message behind our first flagship location: ‘Hey guys, Palestinian identity is not this controversy.’”

That’s why, Elenani said, amid the bomb threats and media frenzy, he finally set in motion an idea he’d been dreaming of for a while now: a space that could bring Muslims and Jews together under one roof and, more specifically, at one dinner table.

The Nation Weekly

Fridays. A weekly digest of the best of our coverage.
By signing up, you confirm that you are over the age of 16 and agree to receive occasional promotional offers for programs that support The Nation’s journalism. You may unsubscribe or adjust your preferences at any time. You can read our Privacy Policy here.

“That’s why we’re here today,” he told The Nation on the night of the Shabbat.

The event was no small undertaking. Ayat shut down early on an otherwise bustling Friday night to prepare for the services at sundown and dinner at 9 pm. There was a tent for the Shabbat Torah reading, a klezmer band and trays of Levantine cuisine, including baba ganoush, rice, hummus, fattat jaj, and mansaf.

Elenani hired Jewish caterers, who provided the gargantuan challah as well as kosher food options. It was a challenge both logistically and politically; several kosher food providers, he said, had declined to serve the event. What’s more, Elenani estimated the night cost the small business owners upwards of $40,000; dinnergoers paid nothing.

The price was well worth it for Elenani. “If we’re able to utilize our cuisine and our kitchen to bring people together, I think that’ll always be the case, and we hope for it to stay as the case,” he said.

For many Jewish attendees, the dinner was more than just a call for peace; it was a call to action and a reassertion of a thriving Jewish culture of anti-occupation resistance. (Elenani did note, however, that “all are welcome” regardless of political beliefs.) As the daughter of a Holocaust survivor, 69-year-old Brooklynite Adele Rolider said she was thankful to be in a space where she could be proud of her Jewish heritage and exercise Jewish traditions of social justice. “I’m proud of being a daughter of survivors,” she told The Nation. “But what am I proud of? Am I proud of just one people having gone through this [so] that I can survive and grow?”

“My growth is to say ‘no’ to this,” she said of the ongoing Israeli violence against Palestinians.

It was a sentiment heard throughout the night, including and especially during the religious services. Jewish spiritual leaders with Kehilla, which is a loose collective of progressive Sephardic worshippers in New York City, began the night with a service that followed Sephardic and Mizrahi Jewish customs, which are those of the majority of Jews in Israel and the Middle East. During prayers, Jewish spiritual leaders led the crowd in a mourner’s kaddish, calling to mind the lives being lost today in Palestine and the lives lost many years ago in the Holocaust.

If you stayed after the line that had formed around the block thinned and the six-foot challah hollowed; had you wandered upstairs at Ayat, where murals of Palestinian flags and folk dancers in keffiyehs surrounded Jewish worshippers swaying in song; if you had asked Laura Elkeslassy, a cantor who had assembled the siddur, or prayer book, for the night, about the melodic hymns she led from her seat at the table; if you listened to melodies that might have been sung by Jews in the Middle East and Palestine all those years ago, before the border walls and checkpoints were built, before the Nakba, you would have seen what much of Jewish life was like then or could be like now.

“The stories of Sephardic and Mizrahi Jews are often erased,” Elkeslassy told The Nation. “Centuries of French and British colonialism created a separation, but that’s not the way they were living for millennia. Tonight, we wanted to recreate these ancient bonds between our communities.”

Perhaps the most literal expression of these connections were the songs, hand-selected for this night by Elkeslassy herself. They were largely works of contrafact, which are prayers or poems sung to the tune of borrowed melodies from another language. One might hear “Li Habibi” (“For My Beloved”), for example, a classical Andalusian song derived from the Arabic “Nuba Hijaz el Kbir” and its Hebrew counterpart “Elohim diber bekodsho.”

“The theology of Zion returned and the Torah pre-dates the nationalist movement of Zionism, and those who read Torah know it does not need to translate that way,” Elkeslassy said. “This book shows a vision of abundance, peace, and eternal justice.”

The night conjured stories from a time before the Israeli state when pockets of multifaith communities lived, worked, and dined together in Palestine, as historian Menachem Klein documents in his book Lives in Common: Arabs and Jews in Jerusalem, Jaffa and Hebron. Jews and Muslims alike founded businesses and public service projects together, such as the Red Crescent, established in Jerusalem in 1916. Jewish and Muslim mothers nursed each other’s babies or watched over each other’s children. Cultural conflict and violence still existed, of course, but in each other, many Jews and Muslims found camaraderie, and a local, unifying identity: Palestinian.

“It did not arrive from the outside, like Arab nationalism and Zionism,” Klein writes, “but grew out of the daily lives of the country’s inhabitants.”

It’s a sentiment Elkeslassy echoed. “Tonight’s event brought hope,” she said. “If the leaders can’t deal with this, then maybe the people will.”

Disobey authoritarians, support The Nation

Over the past year you’ve read Nation writers like Elie Mystal, Kaveh Akbar, John Nichols, Joan Walsh, Bryce Covert, Dave Zirin, Jeet Heer, Michael T. Klare, Katha Pollitt, Amy Littlefield, Gregg Gonsalves, and Sasha Abramsky take on the Trump family’s corruption, set the record straight about Robert F. Kennedy Jr.’s catastrophic Make America Healthy Again movement, survey the fallout and human cost of the DOGE wrecking ball, anticipate the Supreme Court’s dangerous antidemocratic rulings, and amplify successful tactics of resistance on the streets and in Congress.

We publish these stories because when members of our communities are being abducted, household debt is climbing, and AI data centers are causing water and electricity shortages, we have a duty as journalists to do all we can to inform the public.

In 2026, our aim is to do more than ever before—but we need your support to make that happen. 

Through December 31, a generous donor will match all donations up to $75,000. That means that your contribution will be doubled, dollar for dollar. If we hit the full match, we’ll be starting 2026 with $150,000 to invest in the stories that impact real people’s lives—the kinds of stories that billionaire-owned, corporate-backed outlets aren’t covering. 

With your support, our team will publish major stories that the president and his allies won’t want you to read. We’ll cover the emerging military-tech industrial complex and matters of war, peace, and surveillance, as well as the affordability crisis, hunger, housing, healthcare, the environment, attacks on reproductive rights, and much more. At the same time, we’ll imagine alternatives to Trumpian rule and uplift efforts to create a better world, here and now. 

While your gift has twice the impact, I’m asking you to support The Nation with a donation today. You’ll empower the journalists, editors, and fact-checkers best equipped to hold this authoritarian administration to account. 

I hope you won’t miss this moment—donate to The Nation today.

Onward,

Katrina vanden Heuvel 

Editor and publisher, The Nation

S. Baum

S. Baum is a journalist based in New Jersey.

More from The Nation

Are Cell Phones to Blame for the Youth Loneliness Epidemic?

Are Cell Phones to Blame for the Youth Loneliness Epidemic? Are Cell Phones to Blame for the Youth Loneliness Epidemic?

David Landes argues that cell phones represent an isolated life whereas Kimberly Hassel blames the loneliness crisis on a society unable to support or protect its youth.

Column / David Landes and Kimberly Hassel

Donald Trump, October 2025.

The Remaking of Trump’s Washington, DC The Remaking of Trump’s Washington, DC

The ballroom and his other proposed building projects are many things, but they are not exactly works of architecture.

Books & the Arts / Karrie Jacobs

Kentucky Kernel editor in chief holds a reporter’s notebook during a staff meeting at the University of Kentucky.

Student Journalism’s Momentous Year Student Journalism’s Momentous Year

In 2025, StudentNation published more than 100 original articles. Here are 20 highlights.

StudentNation / StudentNation

Hector Casanova color illustration of “phone-heads.”

My Dumb Journey Through a Smartphone World My Dumb Journey Through a Smartphone World

I spent six months with a flip phone. I learned that a more conscious technological future will require much more than just unplugging.

Martin Dolan

How the Border Patrol Moved Inland—and Created a Police State

How the Border Patrol Moved Inland—and Created a Police State How the Border Patrol Moved Inland—and Created a Police State

In 1994, the writer Leslie Marmon Silko wrote a piece for The Nation warning of a frightening new immigration regime.

Richard Kreitner

Jeffrey Epstein and Steve Bannon, in a photo released by House Democrats.

Why Epstein’s Links to the CIA Are So Important Why Epstein’s Links to the CIA Are So Important

We won’t know the full truth about his crimes until the extent of his ties to US intelligence are clear.

Column / Jeet Heer