It’s a pitiful thing to contemplate: By my estimation, close to 85 percent, perhaps even 95 percent, of the food that feeds my hometown of Moab, Utah, population 5,000, gets trucked or flown in over the red-rock desert, often from continental distances. Cut off that supply line–an absurd, wasteful and polluting operation where the average morsel travels 1,500 miles from farm to plate–and the city would starve to death in a week.
Eighty years ago Moab fed itself. The locals ate beef from cattle that grazed in the cool of the nearby mountains in summer or on the warm canyon floors in winter, where the townspeople also tended melons, peaches, nectarines, tomatoes, onions, potatoes, romaine lettuce and much else. The last of the old melon orchards are gone, bulldozed to make way for condo sprawl named after the destroyed gardens–a classic pattern that holds even for big cities. Among these is Washington, DC, where as recently as the 1950s most residents got their produce from Maryland farms next door that are now subdivisions of tarmac and drywall.
A few of my fellow Moabites balk at this foolery and plant their own gardens to take advantage of the desert sun. Jon Olschewski, who is 29 and pays his rent waiting tables at one of Moab’s restaurants, where the food tastes like salted rubber, gets up to 70 percent of his family’s diet from his 2.5-acre farm, depending on the season. He and his father, a stonemason, tend twenty-three types of fruit and vegetable and herb–melons, kohlrabi, cilantro, squash, edamame, garlic, dill, chocolate peppers–and cull the eggs of as many as ten chickens a season. “In the first half of the twentieth century, a semi truck of fruit rolled out of Moab every day,” Olschewski tells me. “Out of acres and acres of orchards. Under 5 percent are still here. This town has turned a blind eye to its agricultural roots. And it’s something that nobody wants to talk about.” He likes to quote Eliot Coleman, author of The New Organic Grower, who notes that an average 2.5-acre farm suffices to provide enough produce for 100 locals for a year.
In an era when transcontinental food consumption has exploded–the value of international food trade is up threefold since 1960, the tonnage of food shipped between nations up fourfold (while population has only doubled)–Olschewski and his ilk are a beleaguered minority, to be sure. But their numbers across the nation are growing. They even have a name: They call themselves localvores. The term is the invention of a group of Northern Californians who on the occasion of World Environmental Day in the summer of 2005 saw an opportunity to fight global warming by eating only from their Bay Area “foodshed,” defined as foods sourced within 100 miles of one’s doorstep. Thus was born Locavores.com and the annual Eat Local Challenge, which has flowered into a nationwide movement that asks participants to spend several months out of the year confined to the “hundred-mile diet.” Gourmet magazine, in an article by activist-author Bill McKibben, has featured the pleasures and challenges of localvorism, while alt-supermarket chain Whole Foods now dedicates shelf space to delectables identified as “locally grown.” Novelist Barbara Kingsolver this spring published Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, a memoir–eleven weeks on the New York Times bestseller list–that chronicles a year of eating locally after she and her husband fled the deserts of the Southwest for the farms of Virginia. “Our highest shopping goal,” Kingsolver writes, “was to get our food from so close to home that we’d know the person who grew it.”