Dispatch From France

By Mark Cramer

This article appeared in the April 14, 2003 edition of The Nation.

March 27, 2003

Paris

Following the first attack at 3 am French time, the morning papers were ready with generic "War Is Here" headlines, accompanied by full-page images of dark skies. During the day, France was reminded in the media by President Chirac that peaceful disarmament could have been accomplished, and that "whatever the duration of the war, the long-term consequences will be heavy," while Foreign Minister Dominique de Villepin insisted that the situation in Israel and Palestine represented a greater threat to Middle East peace than Iraq did, one that needed to be resolved with assured security for Israel and justice for the Palestinians.

Students of my son's lycée went through with their planned walkouts, joining with students from across Paris. At a company where I tutor a sales executive in English, it was clear when I arrived that the receptionist had been crying. "I know what it's like to be bombed," she said, referring to her experience in Belgrade. "I can't believe they continue this insanity." My student said she was unable to concentrate on selling handbags. "I don't know a single person who believes in this war," she added.

Outside, heavy police guards were protecting the US Embassy and barricaded consulate, normally heavy traffic was halted within a 500-meter radius and an eerie silence hung over usually congested streets. Traditionally off-limits to demonstrations because of its proximity to the US Embassy, the immense Place de la Concorde began filling up with 100,000 protesters by 6:30 pm. Students arrived with a loudspeaker playing "Imagine" and "Stop the War." Members of Americans in France Against the War on Iraq attached posters to their bodies on which were printed a drawing of George W. Bush and the words "Wanted: War Criminal."

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About Mark Cramer

Mark Cramer is the author of FunkyTowns USA (TBS) and Culture Shock! Bolivia (Graphic Arts Center). He lives in France. more...
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